The new view on layered hair

We learn that a little bit of layering is essential for nearly every cut

Think layered hair and images of Jennifer Aniston’s Friends character Rachel come to mind. Thanks to this phenomenon, patently choppy and decidedly bouncy locks were de rigueur for manes throughout the mid-’90s. Whether hair was shoulder length à la ‘The Rachel’, or longer, leaving at least one inch between each layer, ’90s layers were there to be seen. Thankfully the era is over, times have changed and nowadays haircuts are just as lush while being a lot more subtle.Vogue spoke to Caterina Di Biase, L'Oréal Professionnel ambassador, artistic director of Heading Out Hair & Beauty, and two-time winner of the Hair Expo Australian Hairdresser of the Year award, who reveals the next generation of layered hair icons and shares which faces suit layered locks.

The advantage of layered locks

“Most haircuts are layered in one way or another. Having layers does not mean your hair needs to be short on the top and even all over. Layers are used to remove weight, de-bulk and help give hair height. A lot of people don't realise that their hair has layers because it is subtly layered.”

The cut

“There are different ways of cutting layered hair. Traditionally, you would pull hair up to a 90 degree angle from the top of the head, choose the length you want it to be and cut. Then you would use the same technique the whole way around the head until you have cut every strand – this is called ‘round layering’. This is one of the first basic techniques that hairdressers are taught. There are so many different forms of layering now – hairdressers may use round, square and uniform. I often use a technique called ‘vertical layering’ because I find it removes weight and gives a soft effect. I recommend having your hair cut every six to eight weeks to ensure the layers are kept looking neat.”

Fringes, faces and warnings

“Layers work with all face shapes and hair types. You just need to adapt the length of the layers to the face and be careful with fine hair as layers can make hair appear thinner. [With] short layers, the fringe needs to be layered so it will blend. [With] medium layers, a longer fringe that’s level with the eyebrows and a soft texture to make it blend with the layers [are best]. Keeping a little more length on the side [also helps the fringe] to blend in. [With] long layers, the fringe needs to be longer. A sweeping fringe works well with a centre or side part. Long hair layers also look great with a full, strong, solid fringe, especially if you like to wear your hair up.”

Modern day icons

“For short layered hair Emma Watson has a beautiful cut. For mid-length layers I love Nicole Richie’s [cut] and strong fringe, as well as Heidi Klum’s current style. I can’t go past Gisele [Bündchen], Elle [Macpherson] and Kim Kardashian for longer, perfectly layered, lush hair.”

Alternatives to layered locks

“[An alternative to layered hair is to] keep the hair solid or use graduation techniques. A good example of this is the graduated bob – think Victoria Beckham when she had her 'pob'. Today we use a combination of layering, graduation, texturising, slide cutting and point cutting.”

Styling layers

“I always work with a round brush and a paddle brush to give lots of fullness and smoothness through the hair. Sometimes with shorter hair you can just dry it with your fingers – this gives more texture and ensures the layers stand out. I tend to use a product like L’Oréal Professionnel Play Ball Density Material as it helps to thicken and texturise shorter hair. When it comes to all-round great products for layered hair I always use a serum before blow waving or drying off as it gives a shiny end result. I recommend L'Oréal Professionnel Play Ball Beach Fizz to provide texture. For more volume at the roots L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Full Volume Extra mousse is great.”

The future of layered locks

“Dannii Minogue’s new short haircut (we call it the long pixie cut) will be really popular. Mid-length bob layered haircuts and long hair layers are still super on-trend. This season we are moving away from curls and the look is beautiful, soft, blow-waved hair with body and movement.”